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Santa Croce facade

Lecce's Baroque duomo
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STOCK PHOTOGRAPHS
of SALENTINE PENINSULA, ITALY
If you travel as far Southeast as you can in Italy to the Salentine
peninsula -- deep into the heel of the Italian boot -- you come
to the wonderful Puglian gem of Lecce, one of the most important
Baroque cities in Italy. Dubbed the "Florence of the South",
it is a sophisticated university town and a centre of religious
study, the arts and early music (a Baroque Music festival takes
place in September). While still functioning as a workaday commercial
centre for the surrounding Province, it blends this agreeable
mix against a backdrop of dignified, though sometimes crumbling,
baroque extravagance. Since it is situated almost as far South
you can go... the Adriatic meant that the duomo's tower once even
doubled up as lighthouse! The city is surrounded by large expanses
of fairly flat countryside covered with olive trees and vines
and curious beehive-shaped stone shelters. The very fabric of
this landscape provided the famous stone, or pietra ...Baroque
splendour that was commissioned by wealthy aristocrats, bourgeoisie,
clergy and religious orders.
...Lecce is a busy place and the best way to explore the compact
old centre is on foot. As you leave the museum, follow the Viale
Francesco Lo Re up to the Porta Biagio set into the ancient city
walls rebuilt by Charles V, testament Lecce's role as a seat of
royal power in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries . Here
you have your first encounter with Lecce Baroque .... Santa Chiara
until you reach Piazza Sant' Oronzo, the hub of the old city waterside
of Brindisi and was presented to the city of Lecce.
Now it is surmounted by the carved figure of Sant'Oronzo...Roman
amphitheatre dating from the first century BC and originally accommodating
20,000 spectators... Santa Maria delle Grazie, faces the column
as well as the sixteenth century Sedile, once the town hall, and
the chapel of San Marco... incredible detail carved into the soft
stone of Santa Croce, Lecce's most celebrated church. ...Baroque
facade rejoices in intricately designed balconies, arches, columns
and friezes which are alive with carved figures, flowers and animals.
The upper section of the facade housing a wonderful rose window
is by Giuseppe Zimbalo who was also responsible for the facade
of the seminary next door, as well as several other buildings
in Lecce. ...Santa Giovanni Evangelista, Santa Angelo and Chiesa
della Provvidenza and, just outside the city walls SS Niccolo
e Cataldo, Baroque again, but with twelfth century origins and
fine cloisters adjacent to the main church... Sant'Irene with
its finely detailed Baroque interior... You may also find yourselves
pausing at the smart shops that line this elegant street. Soon,
you will reach the beautiful Piazza del Duomo on the left, its
entrance framed on either side by the stone figures standing on
balconies. The duomo was originally built in the twelfth but was
restored in its present form in 1570 by -- you guessed it -- Giuseppe
Zimbalo.
Inside there are unusual wooden and papier mache statues as well
as several noteworthy paintings and an excellent coffered ceiling...
Palazzo Balsamo with a wonderful balcony supported by four figures
on either side --restored but still betraying the ravages of the
years. A little further on, a right turn down Via Leonardo ...Acaia
has a very fine Renaissance gateway into the quiet and attractive
fortified town.
From here, the pleasant drive to the coast takes you to San Cataldo,
a small seaside resort with a good sandy beach . Further along
the coastal route is Roca Vecchia a popular fishing spot with
beautiful sea and the crumbled remains of its ancient Messapian
site, as well as several dolmen scattered around this area.
© John Heseltine
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